The information in this section is reproduced from Mark W. Nolting's book, Africa's Top Wildlife Countries, Revised 6th Edition. This content cannot be reproduced without authorization of the author. To purchase Mark's book, please visit: www.africa-adventure.com/dsp_products.html.

TANZANIA Introduction Wildlife and Wildlife Area Arusha Accommodation Lake Natron Region Mount Kilimanjaro National Park Zones Routes Marangu Route Machame Route Rongai (Nale Moru) Route Shira Plateau Route Lemosho Route Umbwe Route Summit Circuit Huts Accommodation Near Marangu

KENYA Introduction Wildlife and Wildlife Area Amboseli National Park Accommodation

Between Africa’s highest mountain (Kilimanjaro) and Africa’s largest lake (Victoria) lies one of the best game viewing areas on the continent. This region also includes the world’s largest unflooded intact volcanic caldera (Ngorongoro) and the most famous wildlife park (the Serengeti). To the southeast lies one of the world’s largest game reserves — the Selous.

Volcanic highlands dominate the north, giving way southward to a plateau, then semidesert in the center of the country and highlands in the south. The coastal lowlands are hot and humid with lush vegetation. One branch of the Great Rift Valley passes through Lakes Manyara and Natron in northern Tanzania to Lake Malawi (Lake Nyasa) in the south, while the other branch passes through Lakes Rukwa and Tanganyika in the west.

Heavy rains usually occur in April and May and lighter rains in late October and November. Altitude has a great effect on temperature. At Arusha (4,600 feet/1,390 m) and the top of Ngorongoro Crater (7,500 feet/2,285 m), nights and early mornings are especially cool. Tanzania’s highest temperatures occur December-March and are lowest in July.

Some scientists debate that East Africa was the cradle of mankind. Some of the earliest known humanoid footprints, estimated to be 3.5 million years old, were discovered at Laetoli by Dr. Mary Leakey in 1979. Dr. Leakey also found the estimated 1.7-million-year-old skull Zinjanthropus boisei at Oldupai (formerly Olduvai) Gorge in 1957.

From as far back as the tenth century, Arabs, Persians, Egyptians, Indians and Chinese were involved in heavy trading on the coast. The slave trade began in the mid-1600s and was abolished in 1873. British explorers Richard Burton and John Speke crossed Tanzania in 1857 to Lake Tanganyika. Speke later discovered Lake Victoria, which he mistakenly thought was the source of the Nile. The German East Africa Company gained control of the mainland (then called German East Africa) in 1885, and the German government held it from 1891 until World War I, when it was mandated to Britain by the League of Nations. Tanganyika gained its independence from Britain in 1961, and Zanzibar gained its independence in December 1963. Zanzibar, once the center of the East African slave trade, was ruled by sultans until they were overthrown in January 1964. Three months later, Zanzibar formed a union with Tanganyika — the United Republic of Tanzania.

There are 120 tribes in Tanzania. Bantu languages and dialects are spoken by 95% of the population, with Swahili the official and national language. Over 75% of the people are peasant farmers. Export of coffee, cotton, sisal, tea, cloves and cashews bring 70% of the country’s foreign exchange. Tourism is now one of the country’s top foreign exchange earners.

Reserves cover over 95,000 square miles (250,000 km2) of area; only a few countries on earth can boast having a greater amount of land devoted to parks and reserves. The 13 national parks, 17 game reserves and one conservation area comprise over 15% of the country’s land area. In total, over 25% of the country has been set aside for wildlife conservation. Tanzania’s great variety of wildlife can be at least partially attributed to its great diversity of landscapes, with altitudes ranging from sea level to 19,340 feet (5,895 m).

Tanzania is one of the best wildlife countries in Africa for mobile tented camp safaris. Vehicles with roof hatches or pop-tops are used on safari. If accompanied by a national park guide, walking is allowed in Arusha, Mt. Kilimanjaro, Gombe Stream, Ruaha, Mahale Mountains and Rubondo Island National Parks, and the Selous Game Reserve. Areas for walking have recently been designated in Tarangire National Park and the Serengeti, and more areas are expected to be opened. Walking is also allowed in the Ngorongoro Conservation area (but not within the Ngorongoro Crater itself) if accompanied by a conservation ranger.

The best weather for viewing game in northern Tanzania is June- March. January, February, July and August are the busiest months. Heavy rains can fall in April and May, during which time travel in 4wd vehicles is highly recommended. Advantages of traveling in April and May include lower rates, fewer tourists, and great game viewing in some parks, such as the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. Light rains usually fall October-November, but, in fact, have little negative effect on game viewing. A little rain is nice because it helps drop the dust out of the air, and the bush turns from brown to green. In southern Tanzania the best months for game viewing are July- October. The country contains 35 species of antelope and over 1.5 million wildebeest — over 80% of the population of this species in Africa The calving season for wildebeest is from mid-January to mid- March.

This town is the center of tourism for northern Tanzania and is situated in the foothills of rugged Mt. Meru. Named after a sub-tribe of the Masai, the Wa-Arusha, it is located on the Great North Road midway between Cairo and Cape Town. Makonde carvings and other souvenirs are available in the numerous craft shops at the center of town. Walking around the Arusha Market, located behind the bus station, is an interesting way to spend a few hours.

DELUXE: * Arusha Coffee Lodge, located near the Arusha Airport on a coffee plantation, has 21 rooms with large ensuite bathrooms with separate shower and bath, telephones, mini bar, ceiling fans and fireplaces. There is massage facility available alongside a swimming pool, and 24-hour room service. * Mountain Village has recently been renovated and has 62 bungalows with ensuite facilities, swimming pool and conference center. The lodge is set in lovely gardens and is located 6 miles (10 km) east of Arusha overlooking Lake Duluti. * Moivaro Lodge, situated outside of Arusha on a coffee plantation, has 23 double (or triple) cottages with ensuite facilities and a swimming pool. * Safari Spa, situated in a valley between Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru, has cottages with ensuite facilities, fitness center, sauna, steam room, jacuzzi, and swimming pool. Polo matches are often played on the grounds.
FIRST CLASS: * Karama Lodge, located about 3 miles (5 km) from Arusha, consists of 12 bungalows with ensuite bathrooms, and it is built
on stilts. On a clear day there are spectacular views of Mt. Meru and Mt. Kilimanjaro. * Dik Dik Hotel has nine bungalows with two double rooms in each bungalow, with ensuite facilities, and a swimming pool. Horseback riding and fishing are available. * Rivertrees Guest Farm is a country-style hotel with four rooms with ensuite facilities, set in tranquil gardens and farmland, situated midway between Arusha and Kilimanjaro airport. * Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge is a farmhouse situated on the slopes of Mt. Meru, with rooms that have private facilities. * Mt. Meru Hotel is a 200-room hotel with ensuite facilities and a swimming pool.
TOURIST CLASS: * The Impala Hotel has 125 rooms, including several suites, with ensuite facilities and a swimming pool. * New Arusha Hotel, located in the center of town, has 72 rooms with ensuite facilities. * Hotel 77 has 250 rooms with ensuite facilities.

This is a remote wilderness with limited wildlife, a few scattered Masai settlements, rugged sand tracks and no tourist infrastructure. You may encounter Masai tribesmen as they tend their herds of cattle, visit the waterfalls and see the inland cliffs that are home to thousands of Ruppell’s vultures.

Located between the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and the Kenya border, Lake Natron is a shallow, alkaline lake approximately 38 miles long and 15 miles wide (60-by-25 km). This remote lake is one of East Africa’s largest breeding areas for both lesser and greater flamingos.

South of Lake Natron is Oldoinyo Lengai, the only active carbonatite volcano in the world and holy mountain of the Masai. This steep mountain takes about 10 hours to climb and return to its base.

Known to many through Ernest Hemingway’s book The Snows of Kilimanjaro (Arrow), Mt. Kilimanjaro is the highest mountain in the world that is not part of a mountain range, and it is definitely one of the world’s most impressive mountains. Kilimanjaro means “shining mountain”; it rises from an average altitude of about 3,300 feet (1,000 m) on the dry plains to 19,340 feet (5,895 m), truly a worldclass mountain. On clear days, the mountain can be seen from over 200 miles (320 km) away.

The mountain consists of three major volcanic centers: Kibo (19,340 feet/5,895 m), Shira (13,650 feet/4,162 m) to the west and Mawenzi (16,893 feet/5,150 m) to the east. The base of the mountain is 37 miles (60 km) long and 25 miles (40 km) wide. The park is a World Heritage Site and covers 292 square miles (756 km2) of the mountain above 8,856 feet (2,700 m). The park also has six corridors that climbers may use to trek through the Forest Reserve.

Hikers pass through zones of forest, alpine and semidesert to its snow-capped peak, situated only three degrees south of the equator. It was once thought to be an extinct volcano, but due to recent rumblings, it is now classified as dormant.

Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro was definitely a highlight of my travels. For the struggle to reach its highest peak I was handsomely rewarded with a feeling of accomplishment, fabulous views of the African plains, and many exciting memories of the climb. In fact, with over 22,000 climbers a year, Kilimanjaro is second only to the Everest and Annapurnas areas in Nepal in popularity as a trekking destination outside of Europe.

Kilimanjaro may, in fact, be the easiest mountain in the world for a climber to ascend to such heights. But it is still a struggle for even fit adventurers. On the other hand, it can be climbed by people from all walks of life who are in good condition and have a strong will. Mind you, reaching the top is by no means necessary; the flora, fauna and magnificent views seen enroute are fabulous.

A Christian missionary, Johann Rebmann, reported his discovery of this snow-capped mountain, but the Europeans didn’t believe him. Hans Meyer was the first European to climb Kilimanjaro, doing so in 1889.

The most unique animal in this park is the Abbot’s duiker, which is found in only a few mountain forests in northern Tanzania. Other wildlife includes elephant, buffalo, eland, leopard, hyrax, and blackand-white colobus monkeys. However, very little large game is seen.

Birdlife is sparse but interesting, with bronze sunbird, red-tufted malachite sunbird, alpine chat and streaky seedeater not uncommon. You might see augur buzzard and white-necked raven soaring above you, and you may even be lucky enough to see the rare bearded vulture.

The best time to climb is January-March and June-December during the drier seasons when the skies are fairly clear. November and December can be wet due to the short rains, while the temperatures in July and August can be quite cool. April and May should be avoided because of heavy rains and overcast skies.

From April to May, during the long rainy season, the summit is often covered in clouds, with snow falling at higher altitudes and rain at lower altitudes. The short rains (October-November) bring afternoon thunderstorms, but evenings and mornings are often clear. Many routes to the summit require no mountaineering skills.

Mountaineers wishing to ascend by technical routes may wish to get a copy of Guide to Mt. Kenya and Kilimanjaro (Mountain Club of Kenya), edited by Iain Allan.

The Park Headquarters is located in Marangu, about a seven-hour drive from Nairobi, or two hours from Arusha. Children under 10 years of age are not allowed over 9,843 feet (3,000 m). Travelers wishing to see Mt. Kilimanjaro, but who do not wish to climb it, may do so (provided the weather is clear) from within the park, from Arusha National Park or Amboseli National Park (Kenya).

Mt. Kilimanjaro can be divided into five zones by altitude: (1) cultivated lower slopes, (2) forest, (3) heath and moorland/lower alpine, (4) highland desert/alpine and (5) summit. Each zone spans approximately 3,300 feet (1,000 m) in altitude. As the altitude increases, rainfall and temperature decrease; this has a direct effect on the vegetation each zone supports.

The rich volcanic soils of the lower slopes of the mountain around Moshi and Marangu up to the park gate (6,000 ft./1,830 m) are intensely cultivated, mostly with coffee and bananas.

The forest zone (5,900-9,185 ft./1,800-2,800 m) receives the highest rainfall of the zones, with about 80 inches (2,000 mm) on the southern slopes and about half that amount on the northern and western slopes. The upper half of this zone is often covered with clouds, and humidity is high, with day temperatures ranging from 60 to 70°F (15 to 21°C). Don’t be surprised if it rains while walking through this zone; in fact, expect it.

In the lower forest, there are palms, sycamore figs, bearded lichen and mosses hanging from tree limbs, tree ferns growing to 20 feet (6 m) in height, and giant lobelia which grow to over 30 feet (9 m). In the upper forest zone, giant groundsels appear. Unlike many East African volcanic mountains, no bamboo belt surrounds Kilimanjaro. Black-and-white colobus and blue monkey, olive baboon and bushbuck may be seen. Elephant, eland, giraffe, buffalo and suni may be seen on the northern and western slopes. Also present but seldom seen are bushpig, civet, genet, bush duiker, Abbot’s duiker and red duiker.

Zone three, a lower alpine zone ranging from 9,185 to 13,120 feet (2,800 to 4,000 m), is predominantly heath followed by moorlands. Rainfall decreases with altitude from about 50 inches to 20 inches (1,250 to 500 mm) per year. Giant heather (10-30 feet/3-9 m high), grasslands with scattered bushes and beautiful flowers, including “everlasting” flowers, protea and colorful red-hot pokers, characterize the lower part of this zone.

You then enter the moorlands with tussock grasses and groups of giant senecios and lobelias — weird, prehistoric-looking Afro-alpine vegetation that would provide a great setting for a science fiction movie. With a lot of luck, you may spot eland, elephant, buffalo or klipspringer.

The highland desert/alpine zone is from around 13,120 to 16,400 feet (4,000 to 5,000 m) and receives only about 10 inches (250 mm) of rain per year. Vegetation is very thin and includes tussock grasses, “everlasting” flowers, moss balls and lichens. The thin air makes flying too difficult for most birds, and the very few larger mammals that may be seen do not make this region their home. What this zone lacks in wildlife is compensated for by the fabulous views. Temperatures can range from below freezing to very hot, so be prepared.

The summit experiences arctic conditions and receives less than 4 inches (100 mm) of rain per year, usually in the form of snow. It is almost completely devoid of vegetation. Kibo’s northern summit is covered by the Great Northern Glacier. On Kibo there is an outer caldera about one and one-half miles (2.5 km) in diameter. Uhuru peak is the highest point on the outer caldera and also the highest point on the mountain. Kilimanjaro’s glaciers are
shrinking and trends in global warming suggest that the mountain may lose most of its ice peak in the foreseeable future.

Within the outer caldera is an inner cone that contains the Inner or Reusch Crater, which is about .5 mile (1 km) in diameter. Vents (fumaroles) spewing steam and sulfurous gasses are located at the Terrace and the base of the crater. Within the Inner Crater is an ash cone with an ash pit about 1,100 feet (335 m) across and about 400 feet (120 m) deep.

In regards to routes, Kilimanjaro is divided into two halves by a line running north/south between Barafu Camp and Kibo Hut. All climbers who ascend on the Machame, Shira, Lemosho, and Umbwe routes must descend on the Mweka route. All climbers who ascend on the Rongai and Marangu routes must descend on the Marangu Route. The Marangu Route is the only two-way route; all other routes are one way only. Climbers from the Rongai and Marangu routes only meet climbers from the other routes on the Kibo Crater rim. This system is effective in reducing the impact of large numbers of climbers on all routes, except for the Marangu Route.

Climbers on the Machame, Shira, Lemosho, and Umbwe routes may approach the summit via the Western Breach or may skirt around to Barafu and climb up to Stella Point.

Climbing Kibo Peak via the routes described below requires no mountaineering skills. A guide for each climbing party is required. Porters are highly recommended. The Marangu and the Machame routes are the most popular, carrying 85% of all climbers, while the Shira Plateau, Lemosho, Rongai and Umbwe routes are much less used. Climbers stay in basic mountain huts on the Marangu Route and in small portable mountain tents carried by porters on the other routes.

Your porters will bring fuel (kerosene or gas) for cooking and heating because cooking with firewood has been banned. The national park guides are not qualified to lead glacier- or ice-climbing routes. The services of a professional guide must be arranged in advance.

The park has a rescue teams based at the Park Headquarters, on the eastern edge of the Shira Plateau, and another beneath Barafu Campsite, and there is a ranger post at Rongai Camp 1.

The Marangu Route is the least expensive route to climb and is second in popularity only to the Machame Route. Marangu has hut accommodations with separate long-drop toilets, and is the second easiest (most gradual) route to the summit (Rongai is the easiest).

This route may be completed in five days, but it’s best to take six days, spending an extra day at Horombo hut to allow more time to acclimatize to the altitude. The huts are dormitory-style with common areas for cooking and eating.

Most climbing tours originate in Nairobi, Arusha or Kilimanjaro Airport and last seven or eight days. The night before and the night after the climb are usually spent in the village of Marangu or in Arusha.

This is the most popular and one of the most beautiful routes up the mountain. It is also one of the steepest routes. The park gate is located a few miles above Machame village. Hike four to six hours through rain forest to Machame Huts (9,843 ft./3,000 m).

The following day you hike five to seven hours to the defunct Shira Hut (12,467 ft./3,800 m) on the Shira Plateau (see Shira Plateau Route for description of the area). Continue hiking about four hours to Lava Tower Hut. From Lava Tower Hut there are two choices to reach Uhuru Peak. One route is via the Western Breach with an overnight at Arrow Glacier (15,744 ft./4,800 m) before reaching the Inner Crater and onward to Uhuru Peak, and then descending on the Mweka Route to Mweka Hut.

The other route option is to continue along the Southern Summit Circuit path to Barranco and Barafu
before climbing to Uhuru via Stella Point (18,811 ft./5,735 m).

This route is also accessable from Kenya via the border crossing at Tarakea. Some climbers spend a few nights at camps in private reserves such as Ol Donyo Waus or Camp ya Kanzi in the Chyulu Hills or in Tsavo West National Park, before beginning the climb. This little-used, unspoiled route with panoramic views of Amboseli and the Chuyulu Hills (Kenya) is also the easiest ascent route because of the steady gradient and the short distance to reach Kibo Hut for the summit attempt. It can be climbed in five days, however, six days are recommended to aid acclimatization and increase your chances for success. If coming from Kenya, meet your Tanzanian operator across the border at Tarakea. From Marangu Gate, drive two hours to the village of Nale Moru (6,396 ft./1,950 m), where you will hike on a path through maize (corn) fields before climbing through a forest sheltering a variety of wildlife, including the Kilimanjaro colobus monkey. The hike takes 3-4 hours. The campsite is on the edge of the moorland zone (8,530 ft./2,600 m) with views of the Kenyan plains. The next morning ascend for 6-7 hours to the “Second Cave,” toward the peaks of Mawenzi, and camp in a sheltered valley near Kikelewa Caves (11,320 ft./ 3,450 m). On the third day, take a short but steep 3-4 hour hike to Mawenzi Tarn (14,210 ft./4,330 m), situated beneath the towering spires of Mawenzi. This afternoon you will have a chance to hike up to 15,088 feet (4,600 m) to further help your body acclimatize. On day four, cross the saddle between Mawenzi and Kibo to reach School Campsite (15,580 ft./4,750 m) — a hike of 4-5 hours. On the fifth day, begin the steepest
and most difficult part of the ascent at 12:00 a.m. Hike slowly on a switchback trail through loose volcanic scree to the crater rim at Gillman’s Point (18,635 ft./5,680 m) at approximately 6:00 a.m. Continue to Uhuru Peak (19,340 ft./5,895 m) — a three-hour roundtrip hike. Descend down to Kibo hut for a short rest and then onward to Horombo Hut for the night. The following day you will depart on your six-hour downhill hike to the Marangu gate.

This is a very scenic and yet seldom-used route, providing great views of Kilimanjaro and the Rift Valley and probably the best wildlife viewing on the mountain. This and the Lemoshe are the most varied and among the longest of the routes on the mountain. A 4wd vehicle is needed, and the roads may be impassable in the rainy seasons.

Drive north from the Moshi-Arusha road at Boma la Ng’ombe to Londorossi Gate, located on the western side of Kilimanjaro. From the gate it is usual to continue by vehicle on a 4wd road for a few miles (kilometers) to an altitude of around 9,000 feet (2,700 m). Then hike four to five hours up to the western edge of Shira Plateau and continue to Shira 1 Camp (11,480 ft./3,500 m) for the night. The track ends shortly thereafter, at 12,200 feet (3,720 m) at the Murram Barrier. It is advisable to hike and not be driven all the way to the barrier — to assist in acclimatization. Hike three to four hours to complete the crossing of Shira Plateau, usually via the rock formations around Shira Cathedral, to Shira Hut (12,595 ft./3,840 m.) It is a good idea to spend two nights at Shira Hut to acclimatize before continuing on. You may take acclimatization hikes to spectacular rock formations on the edge of Shira Caldera or a longer hike toward Moir Hut, which give excellent views of the Northern Icefields.

From Shira Hut it is about a four-hour hike to the remains of Lava Tower Hut. The vegetation changes on the Shira Plateau are fabulous as you walk through open grasslands and moorlands dotted with giant senecios, over 30 feet (9 m) high, and past the impressive Shira Cone, Cathedral and Needle Peaks. From Lava Tower Hut follow the directions from the Machame Route for optional routes to the summit.

Next to the Umbwe Route, this is the least-used route and requires a minimum of seven days. As with the Shira Plateau Route above, drive to the Londorossi Gate. Then drive to Lemosho Glades and hike through the rainforest to Forest Camp (8,000 ft./2,440 m). On the second day, take a full day’s hike into the Shira Caldera, a high grassy plateau, to Shira One Campsite (11,500 ft./3,500 m). On day 3, trek for 3-4 hours across the Shira Plateau to Shira 2 Campsite (12,200 ft./3,700 m). Those who feel strong can take an acclimatizing trek to Shira Cathedral. On Day 4, hike seven hours down the Barranco Valley over 15,000 feet (4,570 m). This is great for acclimatization. Next go to the camp at Barranco Wall (12,900 ft./3,940 m.). On day 5, climb up Barranco Wall (14,000 ft./4,270 m). On Day 6 trek to Barafu Camp (16,000 ft./4,600 m). On Day 7, begin trekking up the scree slopes just after midnight to Stella Point on the rim and onward to Uhuru Peak. Return to Barafu Camp and continue your descent to Mweka Hut (10,170 ft./3,100 m). On Day 8, hike to Mweka Gate.

The Umbwe Route is very steep and strenuous. The route begins at Umbwe (about 4,600 ft./1,400 m), a village 10 miles (16 km) from oshi. Walk two miles to Kifuni village and into the forest. Follow the path for another 3.5 miles (5 km) and then branch left into a mistcovered forest until you reach the forest cave (Bivouac #1) at 9,515 feet (2,900 m), six to seven hours from Umbwe. Overhanging ledges extending about 5 feet (1.5 m) from the cliff provide reasonable protection for about six people; however, it is recommended you use your own tents. Water is available, but not close by.

Continue through moorlands and along a narrow ridge with deep valleys on either side. The thick mist and vegetation covered with “Old Man’s Beard” moss creates an eerie atmosphere. The second caves at 11,483 feet (3,500 m) are still another two- to three-hour hike from Bivouac #1. The vegetation thins out, and you branch right shortly before arriving at Barranco Hut (12,795 ft./3,900 m) about two hours later.

From Barranco you can backtrack to the fork and turn right (north) and hike for three hours to where Lava Tower Hut (15,092 ft./4,600 m) used to stand. From there, the climb is up steep scree and blocks of rock to the floor of the crater and Uhuru Peak via the Great Western Breach. The climb from Lava Tower Hut to the caldera takes about nine hours. An alternative from Barranco Hut is to traverse the mountain eastward and follow the Summit Circuit path to Barafu Camp. Descend via the Mweka Route, regardless of the summit
routes used.

There is a circuit between 12,139 and 15,092 feet (3,700 and 4,600 m) completely around the base of Kibo Peak. Horombo, Barranco and Moir Huts are on the circuit, while Lava Tower, Shira, Kibo and Mawenzi Huts are on side trails, not far from the circuit. A tent is needed since there is no hut on the northern side of Kibo. Be sure to bring a well-insulated pad for your sleeping bag.

Mandara, Horombo and Kibo Huts are described under the Marangu Route above. The other huts are prefab metal huts, either 10 or 15 feet (3 or 4.5 m) in diameter in varying states of disrepair; most are basically uninhabitable. Many of the wooden floors have been ripped up and used for firewood. Tourists are not allowed to sleep in any of the huts on the mountain (other than Mandara, Horombo and Kibo) so you must plan on sleeping in your own tent and let the guides and porters use the huts. Drinking water should be filtered, treated and/or boiled, because some sources on the mountain are polluted.

• MAWENZI HUT (15,092 ft./4,600 m): From “The Saddle” on the Marangu Route, just after passing East Lava Hill, hike 1 1/4 (2 km) miles east-northeast on a marked path to the hut at the base of the West Corrie. Mawenzi Hut sleeps five and is about a three-hour hike from Horombo or Kibo Huts. There are no toilets. Mawenzi Peak should be attempted only by well-equipped, experienced mountaineers.
• MAWENZI TARN HUT (14,206 ft./4,330 m): This hut is situated northeast of Mawenzi Hut; it is an easy hike around the foot of the peak. There are toilets there, and water is also available.
• MWEKA HUTS (9,515 ft./2,900 m): There are two large huts. There is a stream nearby.
• BARAFU HUT (15,092 ft./4,600 m): There is no water.
• BARRANCO HUT (12,795 ft./3,900 m): There is a bivouac site about a 600-foot walk above the hut under a rock overhang. A stream is located
  nearby.
• MOIR HUT (13,780 ft./4,200 m): This hut is located on the northwest
  side of Kibo north of the Shira. There is water nearby.

TOURIST CLASS: * Nakara Hotel, located 1.5 miles (2 km) from the Marangu Gate, has 19 rooms with ensuite facilities. * Protea Capricorn Hotel, located 1.5 miles (2.5 km) from the Park Gate, has 20 rooms with ensuite bathrooms. * Kibo Hotel, situated less than a mile (1.6 km) from Marangu
village, has rooms with ensuite facilities (150 beds). * Marangu Hotel, located a mile and a half (2.4 km) from Marangu village, is a rustic lodge with 29 double rooms with ensuite facilities.

The word “safari” is Swahili for “a journey,” and Kenya is where it all began. Hemingway immortalized the safari experience, although he was a sport and trophy hunter rather than a naturalist or photographer.

Joy Adamson was among the group of expatriates, in the 1960s and 1970s, whose endeavors to conserve African wildlife captured the world’s attention. The writings of Karen Blixen, and the adaptation of her classic book Out of Africa into a motion picture starring Robert Redford and Meryl Streep, helped establish Kenya as a great safari destination in the modern era.

Visitors to Kenya can enjoy game viewing, birdwatching, hot-air ballooning, mountaineering, scuba diving, freshwater and deep-sea fishing, and numerous other activities.

Kenya is well known for the magnificent Serengeti Migration (shared with Tanzania) of more than one million wildebeest and zebra in the Masai Mara and for the colorful Masai, Samburu and other tribes that contribute so much to making this a top safari destination.

Kenya has one of the most diversely majestic landscapes on the continent. The Great Rift Valley, with the steep-walled valley floor dropping as much as 2,000-3,000 feet (610–915 m) from the surrounding countryside, is more breathtakingly dramatic here than anywhere else in Africa.

The eastern and northern regions of the country are arid. Most of the population and economic production are in the south, which is characterized by a plateau that ranges in altitude from 3,000 to 10,000 feet (915 to 3,050 m), sloping down to Lake Victoria in the west and to a coastal strip to the east.

Over half the country is Christian, although many people still retain their indigenous beliefs. There is a Muslim population concentrated along the coast. The Masai are found mainly to the south of Nairobi, the Kikuyu in the highlands around Nairobi, the Samburu in the arid north, and the Luo around Lake Victoria.

Bantu and Nilotic peoples moved into the area before Arab traders, who arrived on the Kenyan coast by the first century A.D. The Swahili language was created out of a mixture of Bantu and Arabic and became the universal trading language.

The Portuguese arrived in 1498 and took command of the coast, followed by the Omani in the 1600s and the British in the late nineteenth century. Kenya gained its independence within the British Commonwealth on December 12, 1963. Key foreign exchange-earners are tourism, coffee, tea and horticulture (flowers and vegetables exported to Europe, especially in the European winter).

Kenya is one of the best countries on the continent for seeing large amounts of wildlife. In addition, lodge safaris, where guests are driven from park to park, are generally less expensive here than in Tanzania, Botswana or Zimbabwe. Prices are even more attractive in Kenya’s low season (April, May and November). Game viewing is still quite good in the low season due to the excellent visibility of the open plains of the Masai Mara and other reserves.

Kenya’s well-known parks can become crowded in high season. However, it is possible to get away from the crowds in some of the splendid private reserves or the less popular national parks. Many private reserves cater to a maximum of 12-24 guests in luxury accommodations and offer activities not allowed within the parks, such as night game drives and escorted walks. Ol Donyo Waus and Campi Ya Kanzi, for instance, each cover 250,000 acres (100,000 hectares) and cater to no more than 16 guests. You can also visit the major reserves at times other than during peak seasons. Booking a safari with a private vehicle and guide is a great way to maximize the quality of your game viewing experience.

The Kenya Wildlife Services, formed to monitor the national parks and reserves, has instituted changes that have reduced poaching and limited the building of new lodges and camps in parks and reserves.

The Masai Mara is the best reserve in Kenya for wildlife viewing and should, if at all possible, be included in your itinerary, unless you will be touring the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania at the times of the year when the Serengeti Migration is more concentrated there.

In general, game viewing is best during the dry seasons, mid-December-March and July-early October. Wildlife is easiest to spot in the Masai Mara, Amboseli and Nairobi National Parks, which have vast wide-open plains. Samburu/Buffalo Springs National Reserves and Lewa Downs are the country’s best northern reserves and are also excellent for game viewing.

The country is an ornithologist’s paradise, with over 1,000 species of birds recorded within its borders. Greater and lesser flamingos migrate along the Rift Valley and prefer the alkaline lakes of Magadi, Elmenteita, Nakuru, Bogoria or Turkana. Lakes Naivasha and Baringo are freshwater lakes. Birdwatching is good year-round, but is perhaps best between September and March when many species of Eurasian migratory birds are present alongside the breeding residents.

Flying safaris are available to many of the parks and reserves.Unique, camel-back safaris are operated in the north, where guests spend time riding these “ships of the desert” and walking down dry riverbeds.

Set on the Tanzanian border, Amboseli is one of the most scenic of Kenya’s wildlife reserves. Every vista is dominated by the majestic, snow-capped peak of Kilimanjaro in neighboring Tanzania. The grandeur of this imposing feature provides a superb backdrop for photographing and viewing big game.

Amboseli National Park covers 150 square miles (390 km2) and averages about 3,900 feet (1,190 m) in altitude. Elephant and giraffe are easily found, and many visitors enjoy photographing them as they pass in front of majestic Mt. Kilimanjaro. The mountain seems so close, but it is actually located in Tanzania, more than 30 miles (48 km) from the park.

The park lies in the rain shadow of Kilimanjaro and receives, on average, just 12 inches (300 mm) of rain per year. Interestingly, however, subterranean water draining off the northern slopes of Mt. Kilimanjaro surfaces in Amboseli in the form of freshwater springs. These springs are a major draw-card for wildlife, and the surrounding papyrus beds are an attractive habitat for wetland species. The dominant habitat is acacia-commiphora scrub or woodland, much of it on rocky, lava-strewn plains.

A dry and ancient lakebed occupies the western part of the reserve, but when it fills after heavy rain it can be a huge attraction for birds. Over 400 bird species have been recorded here, including three varieties of sandgrouse, rosy-patched bushshrike, Taveta golden weaver and purple grenadier. In addition to the plain’s game typical of East Africa, the arid-adapted gerenuk, lesser kudu and fringe-eared oryx may been seen.

From Nairobi, travel south across the Athi Plains inhabited by the Masai pastoralists. Visitors enter the park on a badly corrugated road from Namanga and pass Lake Amboseli (a salt pan), which is bone dry except in the rainy seasons, eastward across sparsely vegetated chalk flats to Ol Tukai. Mirages are common under the midday sun.

Approaching the center of the park, the barren landscape turns refreshingly green from springs and swamps fed by underground runoff from the overshadowing Mt. Kilimanjaro. These swamps give life to an otherwise parched land, providing water for nearby grasslands and acacia woodlands and attracting a profusion of game and waterfowl. Superb starling, red-and-yellow barbet and silverbird are amongthe bush birds in residence.

Large herds of elephant and buffalo are often seen around the swamps, especially at Enkongo Narok Swamp, where it is easy to obtain photos of animals (especially elephant) in the foreground and Mt. Kilimanjaro in the background. Early morning is best, before Kilimanjaro is covered in clouds; the clouds may partially clear in late afternoon.

Observation Hill is a good location from which to get an overview of the park. There is a pretty good chance of spotting cheetah, giraffe and impala, but oryx and gerenuk are less likely to be seen. Game viewing is best from mid-December to March (also best views of Kilimanjaro) and from July to October.

To limit destruction to the environment, driving off the roads is forbidden, and heavy fines are being levied against those who break the rules. Please do not ask your driver to leave the road for a closer look at wildlife. The park is about 140 miles (225 km) from Nairobi.

CLASS A: * Tortilis Camp is located just outside the reserve and has 17 luxury tents with ensuite facilities and a swimming pool. Day games drives within the park, and night game drives and walks in their concession area outside the park, are offered.
CLASS A/B: * Amboseli Serena Lodge, located in the south of the park, is a lodge with 96 rooms with ensuite facilities and a swimming pool.
CLASS B: * Ol Tukai Lodge has 80 rooms with facilities ensuite and a swimming pool.
CLASS C: * Amboseli Lodge has 112 rooms with facilities ensuite and a swimming pool.
CAMPING: Campsites are located outside the park on Masai land, 4 miles (6 km) past Observation Hill. No facilities exist except long-drop (pit) toilets. Bring your own water.